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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.