Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
